Kilkerran 8 Cask Strength – Whisky & Wild Review 5
There is a perception in whisky that lighter, more elegant whiskies are great to start on. Introduce a novice to a fruit forward, softer, elegant whisky and then work towards the more intense flavours.
Traditional? You betcha (Photo credit @Maltmusings)
This perceived wisdom stretches to peated Islay and Campbeltown beasts like this Kilkerran 8-year-old cask strength (8yo CS). It is an arrogance that puts beginners’ palates in a ‘fruity, light’ box but allows for others to have variety. It also ignores the fact that Laphroaig is one of the best-selling malts in the US. Many American’s first experience of malt whisky will never be described as ‘elegant’.
By this measure it would also be considered odd to offer Kilkerran 8 yo CS to a novice. This moody, dense monster of a dram has such a limited supply, beginners won’t even get a whiff. The market has reserved this for those who set their clocks to exact release times, true fans who (as far as we can tell) genuinely drink the stuff. Good luck to them and their furious pressing of the f5 key.
Photo credit @maltmusings
Our main problem with this model is it ignores individuals. The people are always the most interesting thing about whisky production, yet we forget this when we suggest whiskies to friends and family. Understanding people helps you understand matching and suggesting whisky.
So, let us give you an example.
We shared our sample of this whisky with a full throttle hedonist. A friend who breaks chicken bones open and sucks the marrow. He smokes too much, listens to eccentric music and is open to experiences that would cause most of us heart palpitations. One of his first whiskies and a perfect candidate for Kilkerran. He loved it.
Kilkerran 8yo CS 2021
56.9% ABV
1st Fill Oloroso
Nose: Dense, vegetal and earthy at first. The antique leather of a vintage car. Our friend suggested a sweaty disco which genuinely made us snort.
Taste: Dark chocolate squeezed through a wetsuit. As dense as a planet. Rose Petals and leather. Like a dark, dangerous, sherry-soaked cousin of the Spanish Liqueur Hierbas.
Larkfire: A tiny splash really opened up the nose. The disco became less sweaty and the leather more fragrant. Some dark fruit arrived but we couldn’t distinguish. Green plum perhaps?
Length: How long do you have? Coffee, mahogany and an exotic spice after party.
(Images above from @thewhiskyimage / @jwbassman_)
This whisky is an individual, an eccentric and great company. It was introduced to a whisky beginner who has since decided a trip to Scotland is on the cards. Who says you have to start a novice on Glenfiddich? The whisky itself has plenty of dark chocolate to balance the ‘wetsuit’ notes but this is part of the charm.
We shall remember this for the friend that gave me the sample (Thanks Brian) and the hedonistic friend that enjoyed it with us.