Lindores MCDXCIV - Whisky & Wild Review 4
Does whisky taste different dependent on the location and moment?
Anyone who has tasted a single cask in a dunnage house will certainly answer yes. We didn’t taste Lindores in a dark warehouse, but the moment and our history with the distillery has certainly coloured our view.
We visited Lindores on a sunny day in 2019 before the world went mad and we were blown away by the beauty of the place. To take such a historic site and build a major new distillery with such elegance is quite something. Their whisky mirrors this, it is an elegant dram with a light, but crafted touch. More of that to come.
The evening we finally tasted Lindores was a warm, summers evening with golden light. These nights are rare in the UK but yet again it seemed to match the whisky. Whisky tasting of younger spirits can often use ‘green’ in their descriptions. However, this evening we kept on coming back to yellow. There may be some that laugh at a tasting involving colour but perhaps the history of the whisky and the effects of the dram were at play.
Lindores Abbey has a widely recognised claim to being the first written records of whisky. The reference to the 1494 date is widely used but they have a modern outlook and the distillery building reflects this as the windows reflect the beautiful gardens around the Abbey. They are restrained in their use of the history and this was appreciated by our gathering.
Drew (centre) and his team
This modern outlook is clear in the owners and the team. Engaging, friendly and keen to be part of the online community. Drew, Helen and the distillery manager Gary Haggart are open to comment and for busy people always give time readily.
So, back to the whisky.
For the history involved, it would be easy to limit the numbers, bump the price and cash in on all these years of investment. This team has a different agenda noted in a quote from the founder and MD Drew Mackenzie Smith
““It is wonderful to announce a date for our first general release, as we know our fans across the world have been keen to enjoy a sip of whisky history. The response to our inaugural members’ release was hugely positive and we are delighted to be able to now share the Commemoratively labelled Lindores and Lindores MCDXCIV. The thinking behind this is that we want all our whisky to be accessible and enjoyed rather than only collected. If people want to enjoy our product they can do so even if they are not fortunate enough to obtain a commemoratively labelled bottle.””
The Larkfire team picked up a bottle for a very reasonable £45 at our local Booths. How accessible is that? The lack of tube, wooden box, free monks outfit etc. were all refreshing and a good sign of the whisky to follow.
The group gathered commented on the bottle design, likening it to an obscure Breton liqueur or rural French spirit. It is a distinctive and, we believe, beautiful shape that fits well with the history. Top marks all round.
So let’s taste shall we?
Lindores MCDXCIV
46% ABV
Bourbon, Sherry and Wine Barrique
Lowland Single Malt using Barley from the ‘Kingdom of Fife’
Colour: Peach flesh, spring honey and... well it’s yellow.
Nose: Wild flowers, perfumed and very elegant. Heady spring blossom.
(A nose that convinced a ‘don’t like whisky’ guest to thoroughly enjoy a full dram)
Palate: Orchard fruits are plentiful, with a richness of late season apricots and plums. The vanilla and other classic bourbon notes are there but the wine barrique gives it a light peachy jam / liqueur feel and this lifts the complexity. A slight pepperiness further balances this very well put together whisky.
Larkfire: A tiny splash separates the elements and the wine barrique brings darker berry fruit forward. Spicy pepper arrives and the stone fruits feel fresher.
Finish: The original spirit and oak influences arrive slowly as the length is good to medium. A very pleasant tiny pepper kick freshens the palate and well, leaves you wanting more...
This is a great start for such a young whisky. The writer of this blog has to give the bottle back to James (Larkfire founder) and the level has substantially dropped in the bottle. Two guests who ‘don’t drink whisky’ wanted a second dram and I have no doubt the team at Lindores will consider that a success. It’s elegant and accessible but do not think this is a polite term. The cask mix gives complexity and drama that do not match the years maturing.
I will be searching for another bottle after reluctantly handing this one back to James.