Boisdale Belgravia review

A collection of individual spirits and infectious personalities. Boisdale at Belgravia is a celebration of food, music and friendship which is a ‘must visit’ when we take some time in London.

At the helm, the owner Ranald Macdonald is an ever-present host. Touring tables and taking time to welcome his guests, often stopping for a glass. There is always a show at Boisdale but the infectious energy of Ranald is anything but. He has a passion for Scottish produce that is as genuine and open hearted as his conversation.

Boisdale in Belgravia is housed within a Regency Townhouse which can be tricky for service but gives the diner a ‘home from home’ experience. The staff are fun and open hearted making the service impeccable but again, very genuine. This feels rare in the capital, but it is part of the Boisdale experience as much as the eccentric hunting trophies and vibrant red walls.

Scottish produce is essential to Boisdale. The lamb, lobster and scallops are from the Hebrides, the beef comes from Aberdeenshire and the water for your whisky comes from Lewis (quick plug there). The menu is lacking mung bean salad (heaven forbid) but even the vegetarian food is hearty, full of joy and life. It’s a haven for big flavours but this is not limited to those with a carnivorous appetite.

Ranald MacDonald family originally comes from South Uist and his love of Hebridean produce is well known to us. It is a great privilege that Larkfire is stocked here and enjoyed in the capital. London tap water has very few fans and even less among the whisky community. We’ve saved a few drams from being spoiled and Ranald has supported another Hebridean business.

Despite being a supplier, we are always welcomed at Boisdale as valued clients. Immediately we relax and simply enjoy the food, music and maybe a dram or two. Our shoulders drop, the jacket is removed and we settle in.

For food we chose the Carpaccio of Venison with Scottish Chanterelles followed by Blackface Haggis. A rip-roaring celebration of Scottish flavour that does not disappoint. The haggis was particularly fine and leaves a pepperiness on the tongue that reminds us of a cigar malt. Our minds turn to our choice of whisky and their impressive collection of malts.

We certainly had a substantial meal but it would be easy to think that well-hung steaks and a cigars are the only fruit. Undoubtedly you can enjoy those things but this is also a place for those that enjoy life and fill their world with flavour. If you come to Boisdale be prepared to enjoy yourself, tap your toe to the jazz and yes, have the sticky toffee pudding.

Cut crystal? naturally…

So, a whisky to finish? To match this individual, traditional occasion we had to have a classic so we turn to the throaty, full volume, Ardbeg 10.

Nose: An initial smoke burst gives way to vanilla and forest floor (this is a good thing)

Taste: Such a balanced whisky with citrus, salt and bonfire toffee all in easy reach. Larkfire helps some charred fruit to come forward and lengthens every note.

Finish: Long, with the minerals, fruit and bonfire toffee helped with a splash of quality, soft water.

The Ardbeg is a heavily peated Islay so this is an singular whisky but then that suited dining at Boisdale. The smoke in this whisky gives way to complexity and those in the know enjoy it immensely. An appropriate metaphor for our time at Boisdale.